Belize



Mayan face at Lamanai 

Howler Monkey

High Temple Yaxha

Hector (guide) in front of Stella

Jesus Christ bird with wings spread

Yaxha

Tiger Heron

Day 12 Explore Yaxha ruins/Overland to Belize City

After breakfast today, we traveled to Yaxha, believed to be the third-largest Mayan site in Guatemala. Yaxha is an active site in various stages of discovery.  What is unique about it is that most of the site is not uncovered.  It is “raw”.  We felt like archaeologists in the sense that we saw mounds that we knew there was a city under the dirt—yet to be uncovered.

 Yaxha was a bustling Mayan trade and ceremonial hub located about 20 miles from Tikal, one of the greatest centers of Mayan culture. It is now within the largest protected area in Guatemala, the “Maya Biosphere,” which includes Tikal National Park and a series of smaller national parks and protected areas. More than 1,500 years ago, Mayan priest-kings built scores of pyramids just tall enough to poke above the jungle here and reach the cooling breezes of the lake. They also carved stone monuments, constructed handball courts, and laid out the streets of their city in a grid pattern.

 We climbed around and walked for about an hour.  Bob’s pedometer registered about 5 miles.  The roads into the site reminded us of our jeep rides in Africa.  Very bumpy.  We had lunch and then continued our overland journey, crossing the border between Guatemala and Belize.   At the border we picked up our “mandatory” tour guide, who rode with us to Belize City.  Along the way he gave us all the history of the area.  He was very knowledgeable—and when we got to Belize (2-1/2 hours later) the tour guide had to take a bus back to his border town. 

On arrival in Belize City, we check into the Belize Biltmore Plaza Hotel (a Best Western Hotel).  Tomorrow is the 30 year anniversary of the independence of  Belize, and there is a lot of preparation for tomorrow’s celebration.  We had local fish for dinner (Bob had pork chops) followed by a wonderful cheese cake.  Diets, here we come in two days.  The mosquitos are about an inch long.  We are glad that we only have one more day in this hot, sticky, mosquito-infested place.  Think that Belize is going to be our least favorite country.  We will see tomorrow.

Day 13 Explore Lamanai ruins

This morning, we explored the ruins of Lamanai (a Maya word meaning “submerged crocodile”), named for the abundance of crocodiles that make the adjacent New River Lagoon their home.  Nestled amid thick jungle vegetation alive with exotic birds and howler monkeys, Lamanai is accessible only by boat, and boasts the second-largest Pre-Classic structure in he Maya world—its magnificent High Temple. The site also features the 13-foot Mask Temple, a stone temple mask of a Maya king.

 The Maya lived at Lamanai for more than 3,000 years, and the ruins here are some of the oldest in Belize, dating to 700 B.C. Excavation of the site began in the 1970s, and thus far less than 5 percent of the structures here have been unearthed. Excavation of the ruins continues to this day.

We boarded our van and took the one-hour ride to the boat launch where we met our guide Nathaniel.  He was half-Mayan, and he talked like a person from Jamaica—using the Belize type of broken English.  As we cruise up the New River toward Lamanai this morning, we take in sights of tropical trees gracefully overhanging the water, delicate orchids, colorful birds winging through virgin forest, and freshwater crocodiles lazing on the riverbanks.  Nathaniel  stopped to point out some of the birds—one in particular was the tiger heron—a couple of baby birds that are about to fly.  We then spent the morning exploring this fascinating site, including its on-site museum, which hosts an extensive collection of artifacts used both for worship and daily life.

This is the last Mayan site for us.  We attempted to climb up the high temple—but the steps were so narrow, that we decided half way up to come back down—a wise decision for us.  It was very hot—but no rain, so we had nothing to complain about.  It was really too hot for mosquitoes.  We had a lunch at the site, and then returned by boat to the launch and then by van to the hotel.  We spent sometime in the pool at the hotel to cool off—but even the pool was not refreshing. 

We gathered afterwards with all our new friends beside the pool, and Hector did a slide show presentation of our past two weeks.  It was a really fun time, with a beverage of rum and Sprite.  We then went to a restaurant in town for our farewell dinner.  After tomorrow, we return back to the US, and will probably never see most of our new friends again.  It was a great time, and we will miss Central America and the great people who live here.

Antigua to Tikal

Bob in Grand Arena - Tikal

Spider Monkey - Tikan

Sawdust carpet for procession - Antigua

Tikal

Tikal - on top of the world

Trail of rain

Day 10 Morning at leisure/Fly to Flores

Today we had a light breakfast at the hotel and then boarded the bus to take in some of the sites around Antigua.  We were fortunate that there were many celebrations and processionals along the way.  We experienced some people making “sawdust carpets”  for the priests to walk on as they journeyed in their processionals.  We were then dropped off in the plaza where we had lunch at a beautiful McDonalds restaurant.  It had a fountain in the middle of the outdoor restaurant and was really great.  We watched the people interact because it was Sunday, and everyone was dressed up.  Then we boarded the bus and departed for Guatemala City to the airport to fly to Flores.  Upon arrival at the airport, one of our companions found out that he had been pick-pocketed—his billfold lifted with two credit cards and a lot of cash.  At least he had his passport and his wife has two other credit cards, so they can continue the trip.

We flew to Flores on an uneventful flight and were met with a new driver and van and were taken to the Hotel La Casona del Lago.  We have a beautiful room overlooking Lake Peten Itza.  We are tired, and have an early wake-up call for our journey to Tikal in the morning.

Day 11 Explore Tikal ruins/Flores Island

After breakfast, we travel the 1-1/2 hours by van to the ruins of the Mayan city of Tikal, a magnificent 1,700-year-old complex and UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Tikal was home to an estimated 100,000 Maya, and it was one of the most important urban centers of its time. Immersed in the Petén Jungle in Tikal National Park, the grounds are expansive and inspiring, and it’s difficult to determine which is more impressive—the accomplishments of man or those of nature. The Tikal site comprises roughly six square miles and contains about 3,000 structures—including temples, pyramids, tombs, palaces, ball courts, and terraces—the tallest of which rise above the leafy canopy and vie for your attention with the assortment of animals and exotic birds. Within the park we see howler and spider monkeys swinging through the treetops; raucous macaws and colorful toucans perching on branches; and grey foxes and wild turkeys wandering the forest floor.

The first part of our visit the weather is great.  We visit Tikal’s Great Plaza and see the 144-foot-high Temple of the Grand Jaguar, the tomb and memorial of Mayan ruler Moon Double Comb, who was buried with many treasures, including 180 pieces of elaborately carved jade. We also see the Plaza of the Seven Temples, dating from the Late Classic period and including an unusual triple ball court. As we enter El Mundo Perdido, the Lost World, where 38 structures surround a central pyramid in yet another “neighborhood” within the vast expanse of Tikal,  it begins to rain, and rain, and rain, and rain, and rain.  It never quits.  We cannot remain there, as the rain just keeps continuing.  We walk for over a half hour, as the trails turn into rivers.  We are literally soaked to the bone before we finally get to our lunch site.

We try to dry out, but we have been in the rain for over an hour, and everything is soaked—our cameras, all the way through to our underwear.  We devour our lunch, and then return to the van, where we sit for another 1-1/2 hour ride back to the hotel.  We have spent the evening trying to dry things out with a hair dryer, etc.  After showers, we walk to Burger King (we are really hitting the high spots), and share a burger and fries, before coming back to the room.  As we pick up e-mails this evening, we hear that Guatemala city had an earthquake this afternoon.  Guess we were lucky we left the city yesterday!!

Antiqua

Chicken bus

Bob with kids at school

Our group with kids at school

Bob getting a facial at Macadamia nut farm

Day 8 A Day in the Life of Santa Catarina Barahona

Chicken feet for soup

We awoke to a breakfast of pancakes and fruit and were off to travel to a rural farming village in the countryside around Antigua this morning to experience A Day in the Life of Santa Catarina Barahona. Before that, we went to a local market and Hector gave us names in Spanish of things to ask the vendors for. Bob had the Spanish word for a fruit Jacote and mine was for a drink mix. We scoured the market asking the vendors to identify our words and paid them for a small amount. We then went to the bus terminal by the market and boarded the “chicken buses” for a ride to the school. We rode with the locals, and the buses were refurbished blue bird school buses from the US. Each bus is owned by a family, and painted to their liking. We took our market purchases to the school that we visited that was supported by OAT. Today was the second holiday celebration, so school was not in session, but 10 kids from ages 3 to 6 came and sang and danced for us. We then went to a private home, where a local family served us a home-hosted lunch of sopas (soups), corn tortillas, and pepian—a local favorite consisting of chicken and vegetables in a spicy sauce. It was delicious. After that, the local family were artisans, and we were able to buy some of their wares. I bought lavender jade earrings and a bracelet.
Then we continue on to a local macadamia farm to learn how these nuts are grown and harvested—and to see how they’re used in food, cosmetics, and a variety of organic products. The owner was American who had been there most of his life. Our guide described him as a character, and he was exactly that. Bob received a macadamia nut facial.

We then return to Antigua this afternoon, and Rose was dropped in town to explore the local markets. It was a 12-block walk back to the hotel. This evening, most of us went out for pizza and beer. It was really great. Tired, so retiring early.
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Day 9 Antigua walking tour
This morning I took my clothes to a launderia and for less than $4, had them all washed. They were returned by 2:30. After breakfast, we headed to Antigua’s Central Park to embark upon a walking tour of the city, one of the Americas’ oldest and loveliest—full of Spanish colonial and Baroque architecture, narrow cobblestone streets, and graceful stucco homes—and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Our tour takes in several of Antigua’s museums, as well as the restored convent of Santo Domingo. This convent was very beautiful, and the hotel surrounding it was a five-star hotel—not where OAT stays.

The rest of the group went on an option tour to a music museum, but many of us just opted to tour the city on our own. Bob and I went to some of the artisans places and bought souvenirs. We stopped at Pollo Campero, Antiqua’s answer to Kentucky fried chicken, and we really enjoyed their chicken strips with fries, coleslaw and 7-up. We followed that by a soft-serve mini ice cream. It was heaven. While Bob walked back to the hotel, I shopped and shopped, and returned in the afternoon to a cold Brahva beer, bought at the local tienda (mini-mart). It is great to just relax from the hectic pace. Got a chance to catch up on e-mails, and thank you everyone for the birthday wishes. Very special.

Zip line and then Antiqua

Rose on Hanging Bridges on way to zip line

Bob on the zip line

Rose just finishing the zip line

Entering Antiqua - reflection in puddle 

Lake view of volcano

 

Day 5 Explore Guatemala City/Transfer to Lake Atitlán

I am feeling much better today, but not entirely solvent. We explored Guatemala City with a panoramic drive through this diverse city, enjoying views of its stately Civic Center, the blood-red Baroque façade of the Iglesia Yurrita, and the bustle of Reforma Avenue..When we stopped at a flower market, Bob bought me flowers (60 cents) and made all the other guys look bad!!

We drove for about 3 hours and reached an elevation of almost 8,000 ft, where we stopped for lunch.  Then we went to the colorful market of Sololá. Here, where tourists rarely visit, our small group mingled with the Maya people and observe how history is woven into the patterns of their clothing

We stopped at the local pharmacia where everyone could load up on Cipro.  10 cipro for $6.   At 4:00 we arrived at our lodge Porta Hotel del Lago in Panajachel, located by the northern shores of Lake Atitlán in the western highlands of Guatemala. The elevation here is only 5,000 ft.  The hotel is beautiful and we have a deck overlooking the lake.  We are to walk to our restaurant tonight,  but with all the rain today, our bus driver may have to drive us.  We are hoping it will clear tomorrow for our boat ride.

Day 6 Cruise Lake Atitlán

When we got up this morning, it was absolutely magnificent when we opened the blinds.  There in front of us on a  bright sunny day were three volcanoes.  After breakfast (yogurt and fruit and granola – yea – my stomach is better), we cruise breathtaking Lake Atitlán. Encircled by three towering volcanoes—San Pedro, Toliman, and Atitlán—which are reflected in its azure waters, it’s been called “the closest thing to Eden on Earth.” with a depth of over 1,000 feet, it’s also the deepest lake in Central America, formed by a powerful volcanic explosion more than 85,000 years ago. There is no road that rings Lake Atitlán, so we’ll travel to its lakeside villages by boat.

Indigenous Mayan people settled on Atitlán’s shores around the beginning of the last millennium, making this the heart of the Mayan world. Their ancient traditions, beliefs, and crafts are preserved in the many colorful Mayan textiles, with their distinctive geometric patterns, that are still created here using traditional methods. The people here dress in their traditional dress, and we bought many trinkets that were hand-woven.

After our visit to Santiago, we crossed the lake to the village of San Antonio Palopo, a small settlement lined with adobe homes—the residents of which still wear traditional Mayan clothes—where we had lunch at a restaurant overlooking the lake – fresh guacamole. Then, we climbed the hill to see people getting ready to celebrate the festival tomorrow of the anniversary of Central America’s independence.  Only fitting, as it is my birthday tomorrow, and I was expected a big celebration.  We return by bus to our hotel.  The clouds are coming in so this evening it may rain.  Tomorrow we do the zip line. 

Day 7 Overland to Antigua/Visit jade factory & macadamia farm

This morning we are very excited about going to the zip-line.  Our excursion begins at the Atitlán Nature Reserve, a 247-acre reserve located on the lakeshore that is also a bird sanctuary and butterfly preserve.  We start by getting set up with our equipment before we climb to the zip lines.  We hiked into the region’s tropical forest, walking along hanging bridges suspended in the verdant canopy, while admiring the landscape’s volcanoes and waterfalls.  We saw the Quatimundi (member of the raccoon family) and the spider monkey. Then we reach the top of the valley.  We are all tired by that time, as it is really hot and sweaty under our helmets and in our harnesses.  The thrill of the first descent is scary and fun.  After the first one, we all get the hang of it, and do a total of six zip-lines in all as we descend the mountain.  After a bus ride back to the hotel we shower, and get our bags out to leave the hotel by 11:00 a.m. 

We traveled by bus to Antigua, through the lush Guatemalan countryside. Today is the celebration of my birthday—and All of Central America is celebrating it because it is the anniversary (like our independence day).  We stopped for lunch and arrived in Antigua in the early afternoon. Founded in 1543, “La Antigua” served as the seat of Spain’s colonial government—whose influence extended beyond Guatemala to Chiapas (in southern Mexico), Belize, Honduras, Nicaragua, and parts of Costa Rica—until the Spanish Crown ordered its relocation to the site of what is now Guatemala City in 1776.  It is all festivals with lots of people in Antigua.  There are parades and bands.  We visit a local jade factory, where we discover the enduring significance of jade in Mayan culture.  I loved the purple and pink jade—new discoveries in the past few years, but managed to escape without buying.  . We checked in to our hotel late this afternoon.  Yes, Nancy and Jim and Mary and Charlie—we have a suite with a hot tub in our room.  I think we received special treatment because I  t was my birthday, but Bob says It is because we have traveled with this company for 17 times.  We went to a local restaurant and the guide and Bob had arranged to have a birthday cake for me complete with fire works!!  It doesn’t get any better than this!!.

Hondorus to Guatemala

textiles in marketplace

Quatemala City

Our OAT van in front of cathedral
Luggage on top

Sorry for the late posts, but the internet keepd kicking me off!!  Will post what we did today in a couple of days when we get to a better accommodation.  We are 5000 ft. in the mountains and having a great time!!

Day 4 Overland to Guatemala City/Paleontology Museum

Following breakfast this morning, we traveled to Guatemala, passing through flatlands dotted with coffee plantations and dairy farms. We stopped at another archeological site,where we walked in the rain and found chards of old pottery and obsidian.  We then stopped to see the black Christ—not the original, but a replica when we arrived in Guatemala City in the city’s Metropolitan Cathedral, a massive neoclassical structure first constructed between 1782 and 1815, located in the heart of the city  We then went to our hote -- : Hotel Stofella,  Tonight Bob went without me to the meal, as I had Montezuma’s revenge.  I spent the whole night talking to the porcelain, but after Cipro and Immodium, I was ready for a colonoscopy come morning.

Day 5 Explore Guatemala City/Transfer to Lake Atitlán

I am feeling much better today, but not entirely solvent. We explored Guatemala City with a panoramic drive through this diverse city, enjoying views of its stately Civic Center, the blood-red Baroque façade of the Iglesia Yurrita, and the bustle of Reforma Avenue..When we stopped at a flower market, Bob bought me flowers (60 cents) and made all the other guys look bad!!

We drove for about 3 hours and reached an elevation of almost 8,000 ft, where we stopped for lunch.  Then we went to the colorful market of Sololá. Here, where tourists rarely visit, our small group mingled with the Maya people and observe how history is woven into the patterns of their clothing

We stopped at the local pharmacia where everyone could load up on Cipro.  10 cipro for $6.   At 4:00 we arrived at our lodge Porta Hotel del Lago in Panajachel, located by the northern shores of Lake Atitlán in the western highlands of Guatemala. The elevation here is only 5,000 ft.  The hotel is beautiful and we have a deck overlooking the lake.  We are to walk to our restaurant tonight,  but with all the rain today, our bus driver may have to drive us.  We are hoping it will clear tomorrow for our boat ride.

Hondorus

Under covered stairway

Covered stairway at Copan

Poor horses

Cowboy Bob

After the long ride with our guide Hector

At Copan

Day 3 Explore Copán ruins and  la Pintada Village Horseback Ride with dinner

This morning we had an individually cooked breakfast with omlet (not buffet).  Then we are off to

This morning we had an individually cooked breakfast (not a buffet) of omlet and fresh breads and fruit.  Then we are off to explore the crown jewel of the Mayans endeavors: Xukpi (to the Maya), now known as the ruins of Copán. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1980, Copán is Honduras' most significant pre-Columbian site and the most elaborate of all Mayan cities, earning it the title “Athens of the Mayan World.In AD 250, the Maya—Mesoamerica's (and the Western Hemisphere's) most advanced culture—began constructing elaborate cities that flourished until about the year 900, an era now known as the Classic Period of Mayan civilization

explore the crown jewel of the Mayans endeavors: Xukpi (to the Maya), now known as the ruins of Copán. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1980, Copán is Honduras' most significant pre-Columbian site and the most elaborate of all Mayan cities, earning it the title “Athens of the Mayan World.In AD 250, the Maya—Mesoamerica's (and the Western Hemisphere's) most advanced culture—began constructing elaborate cities that flourished until about the year 900, an era now known as the Classic Period of Mayan civilization

Our guide is very knowledgeable about the Mayans as he is a descendent, himself.  We spent a full morning here exploring its sprawling ball court, adorned with markers resembling macaw heads; and the Great Plaza, scattered with altars and lined with carved stone columns called stelae, which represent powerful Mayan rulers and date from AD 711-736. Among the ruins here that have helped to unveil Mayan history is Altar Q, a rectangular stone altar with carved portraits of all of Copán's rulers, from the founder, Yax Kuk Mo, to the last ruler, Yax Pac.

The most impressive remnant is the Hieroglyphic Stairway—63 steps with 2,500 glyphs, or symbols, carved into the stone, transforming the pyramid’s steps into the Mayans' longest historical record. The ancient Mayan belief system gave extraordinary importance to precisely measuring and recording the dates of events such as the reigns of rulers, and many of Copán's monuments, and those of other Mayan centers, are elaborate sacred calendars.

We saw some beautiful MacCaw birds that inhabit the surrounding jungle. They were magnificent in flight and had beautiful coloring.  We depart the ruins for lunch at a local “Mexican” restaurant where we enjoyed home-made tortillas and lots of fillings with fresh avocado, and of course, beer.  Bob was happy because he found someone who did not eat their ice cream.  Sorry Charlie—we miss you, but it takes so little to make Bob happy. 

It is hot, and we return to the hotel and leave after 25 minutes for a 45 minute horseback ride through rolling pastures and fields of wildflowers on our way to La Pintada, a quaint farming village of thatched-roof homes and garden patches. At La Pintada, we are greeted by children who are descendants of the Maya.  It is Sunday, and the village has come out to greet us.  The young people show us some of their dancing, and we then have to climb back on our horses and descend the hill.  It is a 45 minute horse-back ride back down the hill  to the bus.  Bob got a fast horse back down the hill, and I had to really kick my horse to catch him.  Think he was very happy, but very sore (I mean Bob) and I am sore and tired too.   We stopped off at a local bar and had more beer.  Just as we got into the bar, it poured down rain outside.  We were very lucky with the weather.  It stopped after just a few minutes.  We came back to the hotel where we have just an hour for a short swim and shower and then we return to Copán for a dinner at a local Honduran restaurant – mixed kabobs.  The girls balanced drinks and food on their heads.  We are all tired as we have to have bags out at 7:00, breakfast and on the bus by 8:00 for the ride to Guatemala

San Salvador to Copan

Bob with feed dangling over street in San Salvador

Rose - overlooking lake in El Salvador

House with 14 layers of ash in Joya de Ceren

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Day 1 Depart U.S./Arrive San Salvador, El Salvador

We left Seattle for El Salvador on a Delta flight through Atlanta  and arrived in San Salvador, Central America's second-largest city and the capital of El Salvador, at 11:30 a.m.  where our OAT Trip Leader Hector Franco met us at the airport and sent us to our hotel. We were the first of our group to arrive, so we had the whole afternoon to explore.   We are in a beautiful hotel suite in the Las Palmas hotel.  Went for a dip in the pool and then went to a taco restaurant where you sit at a table on the second floor of a building and hang your feet dangling over the sidewalk.  Best tacos this side of the taco wagon in Richland.

Day 2 Discover Joya de Cerén/Overland to Copán, Honduras

At breakfast, we sampled pupusas, a traditional dish of El Salvador, made of beans, beef, and cheese stuffed into a corn tortilla and served with salsa.  We met our traveling companions.  There are 16 of us in all.  Our bus drive is named Hime. 

After breakfast, we took a panoramic city tour of San Salvador, passing the National Palace, and touring the Catedral Metropolitana in the city center, stopped at a military facility and looked at a map of Central America.  Hector told us that there is no wine made in Central America, only beer.  We are told there 2 million people in San Salvador.  There are flags on the car.  They are celebrating independence in Central America – 1821 – 2011 on  September 15.  We bought a flag with 5 volcanos on it that represents the five states in Central America – Nicaragra, Guatamala, Costa Rica, Hondors, and San Salvador.  Two were recently added – Beleize, and Panama.   At the cathedral I lit a candle for Jerry and Annie.  When I first lit it, it went out.  Then I relit it and it stayed.  I believe it is symbolic for Jerry, who is now actively dying of Lung cancer—his light is going out, but Annie’s is going on.

Then, we set off to explore Joya de Cerén, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the first of five Mayan archaeological sites we’ll discover on this adventure.  Located about 30 minutes from San Salvador, Joya de Cerén is aptly nicknamed the “Pompeii of the Americas, ” because—like Pompeii—it features remarkably intact dwellings that were preserved for centuries after being buried by volcanic ash. Dating from about AD 600, the ruins here were the homes of ordinary people—not, as at most other sites the monumental temples of royalty—the adobe houses, communal baths, and public buildings of a typical Mayan farming village. This site was discovered in 1976 and is still being excavated. Evidence suggests that the inhabitants were able to evacuate as the eruption destroyed their village, but they left utensils, textiles, and furniture behind that provide revealing glimpses of Mayan life more than a millennium ago.

We then visited a military site, where we saw a map of cement of San Salvador, so we could see where we would be going today.  We learn on our drive to lunch that the average salary 10 years ago was $90 a month, where today, the lowest salary is $140 a month.  If you have a high school degree, you can make upwards to $600 per month.  From Joya de Cerén, we head to the border of Honduras—stopping en route for lunch at a local restaurant on the shores of Lake Coatepeque—bound for the town of Copán.   Henrico discussed with us some political problems in Central America.  The FMLN political group is in power, and it is based on communist party.  The biggest problem in Central America today is gangs and drugs.

We are tired after our 6 hour ride and have a welcome drink with rum and fruit punch.  Then to dinner where we have fish and you guessed it—more beer.

We miss our traveling companions (Browns and Montanos) but will happily join them in a couple of months on the river cruise.  The hotel wi-fi is not working well, so am finally getting to the lobby to download this.  Sorry it is not too personal today.

We arrive in time for an orientation walk around our hotel—a charming, colonial-style property just a short ride away from the town's Central Plaza and the Copán ruins. This evening, we’ll enjoy a Welcome Dinner at our hotel.

Day 3 Explore Copán ruins/Optional la Pintada Village Horseback Ride with dinner